Arlington’s East European restaurant listens to pleas, reopens following renovations
The entrance to Taste of Europe features wooden, medieval-inspired double doors and warm, lantern-style lights on both sides of the doorway. Inside, cabinets on the walls display rows of colorful, painted nesting dolls — a mix of whimsical and cultural collections of Eastern European folk art. The decor was recently renovated with wood walls, terracotta tiles and new lighting to bring out the restaurant’s brown tone. The lights were dimmed and smooth jazz flowed through the dining room. This is the world of Alexandre Tsalko, a Belarusian who took over the restaurant in 2021 after his wife’s father, Mikhail Frumkin, retired. Frumkin didn’t want to close the restaurant because they had regular customers, so he told his son-in-law, “You can try. If you’re good, good. If you’re not good you can close,” Tsalko said. In 2002, Frumkin founded Taste of Europe on West Pioneer Parkway, about three miles from UTA. The restaurant was temporarily closed in August and reopened Nov. 1 following renovations. Outside of serving a variety of Eastern European dishes, the restaurant also has a small section in the corner selling European snacks, beverages and ingredients. When Tsalko took over the restaurant, he learned the business step by step from Frumkin. The family recipes, which haven’t changed, require all components of the dishes to be made from scratch. The restaurant’s signature dishes include golden brown potato cakes with a side of applesauce and sour cream, as well as beef stroganoff, served with a cream onion and mushroom sauce on top of egg noodles. Its flavors were once featured on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” in 2012. The jagerschnitzel, thinned tender pork fried in breadcrumbs and covered in a mushroom sauce with sautéed sauerkraut, has brought Grand Prairie residents Deborah Cypert and Holli Blackwell back to Taste of Europe for almost a decade. They bring each other to the restaurant on their birthdays, Cypert said. They don’t eat out much, but if they are going to, “We want to come somewhere special where the food is excellent,” Blackwell said. Although Taste of Europe only opens for dinner Wednesday and Thursday and all day during weekends, Tsalko drives an hour and a half from Rowlett, Texas, to arrive at the restaurant at 7:30 a.m. every day to either clean, order or pick up food and do the prep work. His two sons live in Arlington, so he sometimes stays with them over the weekend. In the morning, Tsalko prepares in the kitchen. In the evening, he greets guests and serves tables. “This is family restaurant,” he said. “We check in everything, and it’s hard work, but it’s good. For business, it’s good.” His first order of business every day, though? “Coffee,” he said, laughing. Tsalko didn’t have much experience running a restaurant other than a pizza franchise from 2001 to 2008. He was a heating, ventilation and air conditioning technician before running Taste of Europe and is the only one in his family to have run a restaurant. The Taste of Europe crew is small, with only a few full-time employees, but most of them have stayed for years. One of whom is Terry Petersen, a chef who started at the restaurant in the summer of 2019. Petersen typically comes in an hour before opening to check if all the sauces are heated up and all the proteins are prepared, he said. He used to work at breakfast places. Here, he learns a different way of cooking instead of prebagged, frozen foods. “It’s real nice to get into an actual kitchen and cook scratch,” Petersen said. In August, Tsalko briefly planned to close the restaurant and move elsewhere. News of the closure spread on local Facebook groups like Real Arlington Foodies and Reddit, where he saw hundreds of messages asking him to stay open. He changed his mind and began redecorating. “I love my customers, and I stay,” he said. Blackwell and Cypert said they missed the old decorations, where artifacts reminded them of a museum. Now, it looks more like a restaurant. “But, the food is still the same, excellent,” Cypert said. As conversations went on, Blackwell, Cypert and their friend continued to taste the flavors of East Europe. And before the waiter could take her plate and clean the table, Blackwell wanted one last bite of beef stroganoff. @DangHLe news-editor.shorthorn@uta.edu