Paul Lovato watched Jambo’s BBQ pitmaster make a chopped brisket sandwich.
He started counting.
One. Two. Three. Four.
Forty-three. The number of steps along the small kitchen to complete the sandwich.
That was in 2013, on the day before he officially took over Jambo’s BBQ in Rendon, Texas, from founder and pitbuilder Jamie Geer, Lovato said. The restaurant later had two more locations, but following personal family matters, he now only owns the location on West Division Street, bought in 2016.
He pursued the barbecue business after managing fast food restaurants for years. That experience allowed Lovato to redesign the Jambo’s BBQ kitchen to streamline the process, so customers can get their food as quickly as possible.
Now, a sandwich takes 10 steps.
But Lovato kept many things from Geer’s time as the owner — including the recipe.
“Jambo’s is pure Texas barbecue: salt, pepper, garlic,” Lovato said about the brisket. “That’s it.”
For pork and turkey, the recipe builds upon the “SPG” seasoning, adding red pepper, chili and turbinado sugar. Lovato also sources green pecan wood locally, which adds sweetness and nuttiness to the meat.
Lovato didn’t change much of the building of his restaurant, which was originally opened in 1931. It wasn’t just a dining establishment and tea room. It also housed an illegal casino. Upstairs, he kept the casino table.
On Instagram, Lovato has learned to produce Instagram Reels to promote Jambo’s BBQ. He calls himself a natural — most of his clips are filmed in one take.
“Most of the time, I don’t even have a script,” he said.
He said he’s proud of keeping the place open. He’s proud of working in a historic building. He’s proud of the people who stuck with him through everything, including the COVID-19 pandemic.
Lovato stopped there. His eyes went red.
“It’s just a pride of when you put some food in front of people and see their eyes light up and it makes them happy. That’s what I enjoy,” he said.
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