Fasicka Hicks still remembers the aroma of berbere, a classic Ethiopian spice blend, in her mother’s kitchen when she was a child living in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
“I always think back when I work on any of the things that I do in this restaurant because it takes me back to the time that I spent with my mother,” she said.
Berbere differs depending on each household, but it has more than a dozen different spices, starting with chili pepper.
Fasicka Hicks’ sister prepares the spice blend using their mother’s recipe and ships it to her. The Ethiopian flavors now make up a whole section of the menu at Smoke’N Ash BBQ, Hicks’ restaurant that she co-owns with her husband, Patrick Hicks, on South Cooper Street.
Patrick Hicks grew up in Waco, Texas, and barbecue is his life, his wife said.
“The skill level on the barbecue was his, and the skill level on the Ethiopian side was mine,” Fasicka Hicks said. “So, we were just doing our own thing, and at the end, where we combined everything, where we can help each other as well.”
Depending on the previous night’s preparation, the Hicks’ may arrive at their restaurant as early as 4 a.m. for the day’s work. She’s still hanging on to the Ethiopian recipes.
“I have learned so much about my husband now than ever, and I think we understand each other much better now than ever because we’re here together,” she said.
Smoke’N Ash BBQ was recently recognized by the Michelin Guide as one of the state’s best restaurants and named a best Texas chef semifinalist for the 2025 James Beard Award.
Fasicka Hicks is proud of the recognition, but she won’t grow a big head because of it, she said.
“What matters is those people coming in here just waiting for the food,” she said.
At Smoke’N Ash BBQ, traditional barbecue flavors blend with Ethiopian spices. The smokiness of the meat is paired with the spiciness of the seasoning. It’s rich, sweet and savory. The restaurant also serves lamb as an alternative to pork.
Fasicka Hicks said she never thought there would be a platter that offers both Texas barbecue and Ethiopian dishes. If she were a first-timer, she would have doubted Smoke’N Ash BBQ the same way people have doubted them.
But barbecue is about community, and Ethiopian food is about getting together.
Smoke’N Ash BBQ is about sharing a meal together and hearing laughter at the table.
Them being on the same platter makes sense, she said.
@DangHLe
