Paul Lovato watched Jambo’s BBQ pitmaster make a chopped brisket sandwich. He started counting. One. Two. Three. Four. Forty-three. The number of steps along the small kitchen to complete the sandwich. That was in 2013, on the day before he officially took over Jambo’s BBQ in Rendon, Texas, from founder and pitbuilder Jamie Geer, Lovato said. The restaurant later had two more locations, but following personal family matters, he now only owns the location on West Division Street, bought in 2016. He pursued the barbecue business after managing fast food restaurants for years. That experience allowed Lovato to redesign the Jambo’s BBQ kitchen to streamline the process, so customers can get their food as quickly as possible. Now, a sandwich takes 10 steps. But Lovato kept many things from Geer’s time as the owner — including the recipe. “Jambo’s is pure Texas barbecue: salt, pepper, garlic,” Lovato said about the brisket. “That’s it.” For pork and turkey, the recipe builds upon the “SPG” seasoning, adding red pepper, chili and turbinado sugar. Lovato also sources green pecan wood locally, which adds sweetness and nuttiness to the meat. Lovato didn’t change much of the building of his restaurant, which was originally opened in 1931. It wasn’t just a dining establishment and tea room. It also housed an illegal casino. Upstairs, he kept the casino table. On Instagram, Lovato has learned to produce Instagram Reels to promote Jambo’s BBQ. He calls himself a natural — most of his clips are filmed in one take. “Most of the time, I don’t even have a script,” he said. He said he’s proud of keeping the place open. He’s proud of working in a historic building. He’s proud of the people who stuck with him through everything, including the COVID-19 pandemic. Lovato stopped there. His eyes went red. “It’s just a pride of when you put some food in front of people and see their eyes light up and it makes them happy. That’s what I enjoy,” he said. @DangHLe news-editor.shorthorn@uta.edu

For five generations since 1910, David’s Barbecue’s recipe has remained the same — it’s about tradition. “We still make all of our own products. We make our own sauce, all the vegetables, the meats. We still cook with all wood, no electricity or gas,” fourth-generation owner Jimmy Harris said. “This business is not hard. It’s a simple business.” But what is the key? Having one family member at the location at all times, Harris said. That’s how they have developed relationships with their customers and employees. Not only do the business owners span generations, but so do their customers. Harris has been in the business since he was 8 years old. He retired Jan. 1 but still helps where he can. He sold the business to his son-in-law, Austin Payne, at the same price he bought it from his dad 35 years ago. “It’s not about money,” Harris said. “I want him to be successful.” At David’s Barbecue, they keep it old school. They don’t use a thermometer to check the meat, forks work just fine. Even the furniture, ceiling fans and trays used to serve customers date back to 1965. The restaurant opens at 11 a.m., but as soon as the staff are ready, they allow customers to make their way in, sometimes by 10:55 a.m. Harris said that in 37 years, there has not been one day he has not opened restaurant doors early. Customers grab their trays and walk down the lunch line-style ordering station. The menu is not flashy. It’s simple ol’ Texas barbecue, and the pair agrees to keep it that way. With a sauce recipe developed in the ’30s, Harris said he does not understand how others cannot make their own. The ketchup-based sauce, cooked in lemons and onions, has not changed. Maybe that’s why Harris hasn’t ever eaten at another barbecue spot. Or maybe it’s because he eats at David’s Barbecue for breakfast and lunch. But really, he said he would be too embarrassed if a customer saw him indulging in barbecue that wasn’t his own. “On Mondays, we’ll go out and eat at any place. And everyone’s like, ‘Why aren’t you all at y’all’s place?’ Because we’re not open,” Payne said. But, still, they have not gotten sick of barbecue — even after eating a sliced beef sandwich and fries every day for a year, Payne said. Throughout the 115 years, the business has moved to various cities, from Oak Cliff in Dallas to where the AT&T Stadium parking lot sits. Now, it’s located in Pantego, Texas, less than 10 minutes away from Arlington. “It’s just so important to be part of the community, ‘cause they are a part of your community, ’cause they become family,” Harris said. With a 3-year-old son at home, Payne plans to work until 2055, when he can pass on the legacy. “I’m grateful to have this,” Harris said. “The day that God has given me is a good day to repeat.” @trinhvchristine news-editor.shorthorn@uta.edu